![]() ![]() When the brake pedal is pushed the stop switch sends current to the stop relay, and the contacts close. The relay connector is different in shape from 65 to 66 but does the same job. The stop light relay is just that, a relay to allow the small contacts in the brake switch to control enough current to supply 6 stop lamps. The point closest to the gearbox is the parking point. The fourth point is used to park the sequencer when the turn is cancelled but the sequence hasn't been completed. The cam closes a series of 3 points that direct current from the turn indicator relay into the turn relay where it gets directed left or right. The sequencer is a motor/gearbox that drives a 4 lobed cam at fairly slow speed. putting power on the brown/white parks the cam to the beginning position. when the power is removed from the brown wire the cam stops. This flasher needs to be lubed, it's very noisy. When a turn is selected the turn signal relay disconnects the brake light point from the selected side (right or left) and instead makes a connection with the wires from the sequencer by way of the magnetic coils inside. If a left turn is selected by the Turn signal switch, current is directed to the #7 white wire, or if a right turn is selected current flows through the #8 violet wire. In its normal position, all 6 rear lights are connected together with the stop light input wire #13 green. Some are connected to jumpers for the internal points. The relay has 17 terminals, but not all have wires. It's basic purpose is to control current flow for the stop lights and the turn lights. ![]() It's actually 2 relays or coils, in one enclosure. The turn relay has two molded plugs, one with eight wires and one with six wires. If these aren't hot with the key on, find the problem and repair it before going further. If those test OK check for key on or ACC power at one wire of the stop switch on the brake pedal, the orange/yellow wire at the turn signal switch connector, the brown/white wire at the sequencer, and the brown/white wire at the stop light relay. (This is what you find after you unwrap the insulation)Īfter working on several of these systems what can't be stressed enough is to check the fuses and breakers for current before diving in. Also #'s 3,4and 5 are in an insulated 'bag' wrapped in tape and held in by 2 bolts.Ī process of elimination is the best way to find the problem with the system, unless you know right where to check, start from the beginning, it's faster. Please note the names of the two different relays, and their location, don't let yourself get confused. ?ĕ) stop light relay also mounted with sequencer and turn relay ?Ĕ) flasher or sequencer unit mounted with turn signal relay ?ē) turn signal relay under the package tray in the trunk ![]() ?Ē) turn signal indicator relay mounted to the column support The basic parts of the sequential system are By unplugging the relay and using a jumper wire from the key hot to the green output wire, the system can be tested and parts can be ordered all at once. Another example is where a stop light relay is bad. An example would be where a brake light switch is bad, a jumper wire can be used to connect the two switch wires so the rest of the system can be tested. Jumper wires are used to either go around a bad part for testing, or bridging a connector that has to be unplugged for access. I like using a test light instead of a digital volt meter because they actually draw a little current, where the meter doesn't. ![]() All the wiring for the rear of the car starts under the console and continues under the rear seat. Finding a break in a wire can be tough, but should be done instead of just going around it with a new wire, the old one may still cause a short. Incorrect wire numbers or colors are not uncommon, the most correct I've found are from Jim Osborn.Īlso most schematics don't show the stop light relay, they show the wire leaving the stop switch and go directly into the turn signal relay. One problem that pops up from time to time is inaccurate info printed in the schematics that are reproduced and sold by parts vendors. This guide along with a 12 volt test light and a few jumper wires should get you to the bottom of most problems with the 65/66 sequential turn signal and brake light system. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |